
It was a dusky morning as we crossed Zamboanga Bay. The sky gave news of rain while waves tossed like catharting dancers on a vibrating dance floor. It took us less than an hour to reach Sta. Cruz Island where we are to see the Badjao graveyard.
The Badjao is our Muslim sea-gypsy people. The Sulu Sea, and wide ocean being their true home, is a shared universe which gracefully flows in their soul. ”Even the boat be with sail, it will not move if there is no wind,” the Badjao say. “And if the wind becomes wild, let your sail down.” (a practical yet profound teaching I attach to Bruce Lee’s “be like water”). The Badjao knows how to work with wind thus their culture participates in the great cycles of the sea. The Badjao concept that man is “but a peer of fish, bird, beast, vine, rock, and tree” justifies for “the exchange of subjugated people for grain and green.” In their culture is the premise where “common moral codes are not applicable to cultures where no clear distinction is drawn between animal, vegetable, mineral and human.”
A BOAT RIDE (AFTER) LIFE
The Badjao graveyard is a humble open territory, canopied by trees upon a stretch of beachsand and pebble. A wooden boat-shaped marker adorns a Muslim fisherfolk’s grave which is said to accompany the deceased to the afterlife. It is common to see wooden carvings rather than tombstones, and with such, I got the feel of sublime community and a boundless stream of connection to foliage, trees, ocean breeze, earth, water and sky.
How far would one go to reach heaven? I found some of the answers for myself here. It is not death that I see among the honored deceased. Nor a punctuation of life, arrested and perhaps conceived to have become meaningless upon the loss of breath. I look at the makeshift wooden boats and a look away is not a far distant moving sea. How can one fear death this way? Some wonderful underlying truth is given upon where my feet are: body offered back to organic earthen bliss; souls rowing farther off, leaving shore towards a big blue harmony.
Heaven is one but beautiful journey, it seems. Nowhere to be seen like that boat that becomes a tiny glint of sun and shimmer on the far horizon—-yet you know you want to head there. I catch wind with my breath. A bird swoops above and a cloud whispers: sail on. And so I do---sails up, sails down.